The outstanding 1997 Amarone Riserva Sergio Zenato exhibits a similar style to the 1998, but the fruit is muted and the wood is more noticeable. Nevertheless, it is an outstanding effort. Its 15% alcohol is well-concealed beneath layers of concentrated black fruits intermixed with hints of new saddle leather, melted asphalt, camphor, and pepper. Spicy, dense, and mouthfilling, it will drink well over the next 10-12 years.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620