After years of mediocrity, Gazin has begun to move in the right direction. The turnaround started with the 1988, which is a wonderfully seductive, rich, sweet, broad-flavored, hedonistic wine, with light tannins, a rich, savory texture, and a satiny, alcoholic finish. Moreover, who can ignore the big bouquet of herbs, mocha, and sweet fruit? Anticipated maturity: Now-2003.

Becoming increasingly herbaceous as it has aged, with notes of licorice intermixed with cedar wood, red cherries, and smoke, this medium-bodied, soft wine has been fully mature for a number of years and is not likely to improve. Its low acidity and plump, forward character have always made it an attractive wine, but owners of it will be pushing their luck to hold it any longer. Anticipated maturity: Drink up. Last tasted, 12/01.