The 2010 Chablis Vaillon is gorgeous. Floral aromatics meld into layers of expressive yellow stone fruits and crushed rocks. There is a pure vibrancy to the Vaillon that serves to balance the depth of the fruit. The vivid yet understated style is highly appealing. The Vaillon was aged 60% in steel and 40% in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012. There are a handful of famous producers in Chablis, and a larger number of emerging estates, but the few wineries are as overlooked as Christian Moreau. This is one of the few domaines where I preferred the 2011s to the 2010s. The 2011s have notable freshness and energy, while the 2010s are at times a bit on the heavy side. Perhaps it is a question of harvest dates or the conversion to biodynamic farming that was in its second year in 2011, or a combination of other factors, but it is pretty clear the 2011s have the upper hand when tasted next to the 2010s. The 2011 harvest started on September 2, a good two weeks earlier than 2010. Some of the wines were chaptalized by half a percent. Total acidities were in the 4.5-5% range, which Moreau reports as being similar to 2010. The 2011 Chablis was bottled the first week of June. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from tank or barrel. The 2010s were harvested beginning on September 16th. These are decidedly rich, large-scaled wines endowed with considerable concentration. Yields were down 30-50% because of hail and poor flowering, and that has marked the wines to a significant degree. Overall, I have a slight preference for the 2011s, which are less bombastic than the 2010s. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700