2006 Chablis Domaine de Vaudon originates in the portions of their A.O.C. holdings that touch Montee de Tonerre and Mont de Milieu (separately bottled here since 1989). As in Drouhin’s introductory-level Chablis, this offers a satisfying depth of savory, briny, crustacean-like mineral character, in this instance allied to fresh orange and lime. Clear, juicy, and refreshing, it finishes irresistibly, with almost sweet suggestions of pit fruits and citrus, accompanied by subtle mineral notes. This should prove highly versatile over the next 2-3 years. The Drouhins now own or control nearly 100 acres in Chablis, Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770