The 1997 Chaleur Estate is reminiscent of a wine from the Margaux commune in Bordeaux. Dark ruby-colored, and boasting a nose of violets, cassis, and blackberries, this is a medium to full-bodied, powerfully flavored and structured wine. Roses, violets, and assorted other flowers are intermingled with highly expressive cassis, black cherry, and blackberry flavors. Built for the long haul, this is a firmly structured, chewy-textured wine. Projected maturity: 2004-2012.Tel. (425) 489-0544.

The winery set out some years back to make a Washington equivalent of classified Bordeaux, and no one has come closer. Winemaker Chris Upchurch captures the lead pencil/cigarbox nuances of Pauillac, and uses the deep, dark, slightly bitter black-cherry fruit to full advantage. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this may well be the best wine made in Washington.——W.E.(6/1/2000)—— 93