I’ll start with the best wine, which is the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, which is a blend of 6% Bancroft, 42% Steinhauer, 18% St. Helena Home Vineyard, 11% Marston, 3% Chabot, 3% Rancho del Oso, and 2% Lampyridae fruit. This spectacular 2004 has notes of barbecue smoke, roasted meats, black currants, licorice and a blackberry-like richness. Hints of coffee bean and white chocolate also make an appearance in this plump, full-bodied, voluptuously textured, dense ruby/purple-colored wine. This is a beauty. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve is approaching its late adolescence and should hold beautifully for at least another 10-15 years. As long-time readers know, Beringer’s Private Reserve is a blend of all of the single-vineyard cuvees in various percentages that differ considerably depending on the vintage. They are available through the Private Members Club at Beringer and are not put on the market, as the only one to be released is the Private Reserve, which proves the blending skills of the winemakers. And those winemakers have been at Beringer for a long time, including Ed Sbragia, and Laurie Hook. As for the single-vineyard wines, I’ll keep my notes short, since these are only available to members. Tel. (866) 708-9463

Production: 8,700 cases; Alcohol: 14.4%; Blend: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Harvest Dates: September 14 to October 16. This blend of fruit from Steinhauer Ranch (42%), St. Helena Home Vineyard (18%), Bancroft Ranch (15%), Marston Ranch (11%), and the rest tiny quantities from Chabot Vineyard, Rancho del Oso and Lampyridae emerged from an unusual growing season for Napa. Heavy rains in February were followed by hot weather in March, April and May, and cooler than normal weather in June, July and August. The harvest began early and finished a short four weeks later, an unusually quick harvest. Sweet notes of licorice, cedar wood, blackberries, toast, pepper and bay leaf are all present in this big, full-bodied, opulent, lusty California-styled wine. Exotic with loads of fruit and on a fast evolutionary track, the 2004 can be drunk now or cellared for another 10-15 years.

This is a big, rich, flashy Cab. It’s very ripe, brimming with jammy blackberry, currant, chocolate-covered raisin and spicy olive flavors. Drinks soft and opulent in instant appeal, but doesn’t seem like a longterm ager. Best now through 2010.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 88