Still backward, but beginning to throw considerable sediment and reveal some amber at the edge, this wine reveals a distinctive, violet, cassis, bacon fat aroma intermixed with smoked duck and Asian spice components. Extremely full-bodied and sturdy, with noticeable tannin, this husky, powerful, concentrated La Mouline is less seductive than many vintages. In fact, in 1983, it behaves more like La Landonne. It can be drunk, but ideally it requires another 4-5 years of cellaring. Many 1983s have proven less exciting than initial predictions because of the refusal of the harsh tannins to melt away, but the tannin is clearly falling away in the 1983 La Mouline. There is still a wealth of fruit remaining. Anticipated maturity: now-2020. Last tasted 6/96.

Concentrated and complex. The plum, black pepper and spicy Syrah flavors are backed by chocolate and vanilla notes from the oak, still coming together and headed for a long future. Try in 1998.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. -TM