The 1991 La Mouline appears to be another perfect wine in the making, with a staggering bouquet of violets, bacon fat, sweet cassis fruit, and toasty oak. The wine exhibits superb density. It is tasting even richer and more concentrated than it did during its first several years of life. With 8% Viognier in the blend and made from extremely low yields (only 400 cases produced), it is a phenomenal wine. I find it more seductive than the nearly perfect 1990. Readers should be getting in their reservations now for Guigal's 1991 single vineyard Cote Roties. In 1991, Cote Rotie enjoyed the most success of any appellation of France. The harvest was completed before the damaging rains arrived. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644

Sweet fruit flavors of raspberry and cherry are ripe and concentrated, while smoky and light herbal notes add interest. Beautifully focused.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. Best after 1996. 500 cases made. -TM