Deep garnet-brick, the 1999 Meshach has an intense nose of evolved aromas spice and dried berry aromas: sandalwood, cinnamon stick, anise, cloves and fenugreek over dried plums, dried mulberries, prunes and figs with hints of soy and espresso. Concentrated, full bodied and layered in the mouth, it offers a medium-firm level of very fine tannins, enlivening acid and a very long finish. It makes a gorgeous glass right now, though it should continue to cellar to 2020+. Tasting three vintages of Grant Burge’s flagship wine, Meshach, with him in Autumn 2011, he told me a bit more about the background of the wine. It’s named after his grandfather: “I was looking for a name that had something to do with longevity. My grandfather lived for 99 years and 9 months.” The wine has always been made entirely from old vine Barossa Shiraz, predominately coming from the Filsell vineyard planted in the 1920s. “When we started first making the wine in 1988 it was a 100% American oak. But then we thought the oak was too sweet. Since 1998 we use 20% French oak and 80% American. We made the change in 1998. The current vintage, 2006 Meshach, was released in March 2011. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd., St. Helena, CA; www.wilsondaniels.com

Deep, dark red-ruby. Dusty perfume of small dark berries, black pepper and spices, along with fragrant mocha and chocolate barrel fermentation notes. An exceptionally elegant, feminine Meshach, with a silky palate of intense, concentrated dark berry fruits wrapped in fine, firm tannins. Creamy, superbly balanced and long, with a lingering herbal thread of fennel and clove.

Aged mostly in American oak, which lends the nose creme brulee and caramel aromas. What’s most prominent on the nose, though, is a dark meatiness—like beef jus. Black cherry fruit on the palate is juicy though restrained by a heap of chewy, gummy tannins that persist through the finish. Lip-smacking and delicious, but not at its best until after 2006. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 91