Far better is the tart but more substantially flavored and textured 2005 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert. This wine has a dark ruby/purple color and a good, sweet nose of black currants and cherries intermixed with some herbs, underbrush, and spice. The wine is medium-bodied with zesty, crisp acidity, an expressive mouthfeel, and a moderately long finish. It should drink well for 5-8 years. I fully expect quality will dramatically soar at Jaboulet (just as it has at Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux) and that these transitional vintages, particularly the mediocre 2004s which were not made by the new owners, and the good but hardly inspiring 2005s, will be lost memories when the new ownership team has the next fine vintage in the northern Rhone.As I reported last year, everything is in transition at Paul Jaboulet-Aine. This old family firm, founded in the early 1800s, was sold to the Frey family, who are major investors in the Billecart-Salmon Champagne house and proprietors of the well-known Chateau La Lagune in the southern Medoc. The entire winemaking operation is undergoing massive changes as the Jaboulet wines have had a lackluster as well as irregular track record after the death of Gerard Jaboulet in 1997.Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Open-knit for the vintage, with juicy briar, raspberry and black cherry flavors, backed by a slightly tangy mineral note on the finish. Drink now through 2010. 1,000 cases imported.

One of the most famous Crozes-Hermitage bottlings, the 2005 Domaine de Thalabert is a little tough and unyielding right now, but shows promise in its persistent, peppery finish. It starts off with gamy, leathery notes and hickory smoke, all backed by crisp blackberry fruit and ample tannin. Try after 2012.