The “l(fā)egs” on this wine are thick and gluey, the visible sign of enormous extract. One sniff and taste confirm that. This is a big, sturdy wine, stuffed with wild berry flavors, and very dry. But beware, the tannins are outsized. Have it with red meat-based foods or age for up to a decade. ——S.H.(6/1/2002)—— 92