If it were not for the Romanee St.-Vivant and Richebourg, I would be ecstatic over the fabulous 25 cases of Chambertin that Lalou Bize-Leroy made in 1988. However, for now it must take a back seat to the other two wines. It is a big, rich, earthy, cinnamon, almost raunchy-scented wine, but is sensationally concentrated and full bodied, with fabulous balance and precision to its flavors. I would not touch a bottle before the mid-nineties, and I would fully expect it to mature beautifully for another 20 years thereafter. The 1988 vintage attests to a remarkably auspicious start for the new Domaine Leroy in Vosne-Romanee.