The Domaine Leroy 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru soars from the glass with a profound bouquet of cassis, cherry, raspberry, rose hip, grilled meat, spice and cedar. On the palate, the full extent of this wine's stunning amplitude and depth—and the reserves of energy that lie behind them—defy description. That a wine of such scale and concentration should be so seamless and complete is hard to fathom. The ecstatic commentary scribbled in my notebook concludes with the phrase "essence of wine."