This baby Cabernet plays tricks on the palate, showing appealing soft, delicious complexity, then retreating into a cloak of tannins, and then emerging again with sweet fruit and spice. It’s bone dry, although the cherries and blackberries show a baked-into-the-pie caramelized sweetness. Give this bottle a good six years in the cellar, and it should continue to evolve for far longer. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 92