I feel churlish stopping one point short of a three-digit score for the magical 1980 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, which a wine of this quality would certainly merit in any other wine region; but Burgundy is all about nuance and shading, and one has to try to retain rigor and coherence, even in the face of a profoundly emotive bottle such as this. Wafting from the glass with a deep and carnal bouquet of wild berries, grilled meats, exotic spices, vine smoke and sweet forest floor, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with huge concentration, deep reserves of sweet, powdery tannin and a long, resonant finish. If anyone's ever wondering what to bring to dinner, I'd settle for this.