The 1994 Crozes-Hermitage Clos des Grives is cut from the same mold as the 1994 Crozes-Hermitage, with more black-cherry and smoky oak nuances, sweeter, riper fruit, more glycerin and extract, and a layered finish. It should drink well for a decade. It's about time readers discover how good these reasonably priced wines are. This talented young producer left the local cooperative in 1990 and has made a name for himself in a mere five years. His wines are expressionistic, deeply-colored, with wonderful purity, and gobs of ripe fruit. Combier is unquestionably one of the northern Rhone's up and coming stars. His winemaking philosophy is not dissimilar from that of his neighbor, Alain Graillot, one of the other talents in the northern Rhone. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800