The 2008 Coldstream Pinot Noir has a pale ruby color and is scented of strawberries, raspberries and moss. High acidity and a low to medium level of fine tannins give a bit more structure to this Pinot with a good amount of flesh lingering into the long finish. Drinking now, it should keep to 2015+. Winemaker Mac Forbes, formerly with Mount Mary, has now gone out on his own purchasing fruit from across Yarra Valley and crafting wines to his own unique style. The Pinots in particular have received split opinions from the locals, some adoring these very pale colored, delicate wines while others think he’s gone too far in the “delicate” direction. While I respect his vision, I do think some of the wines are a little lacking in intensity and structure. For those that like to live life on the light side, I think there’s a lot of pleasure to be had from his Pinots as well as the Chardonnays. Importer: Ronnie Sanders, Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9464

Pale red. Lively redcurrant and strawberry aromas are complicated by nuances of white pepper and herbs. Lithe, precise and refreshing, with brisk red fruit flavors and a late note of candied rose. The fruit shows sneaky concentration and gains sweetness with air. Finishes refreshingly clean and nervy, with the redcurrant note repeating. Precise and lithe pinot.