Equivalent to many of the better Chateauneuf du Papes is the 2003 Lirac Cuvee de la Reine des Bois. Equal parts Grenache and Syrah, the wine has a dense purple color and a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, blackberry, licorice, crushed rocks, and white flowers. Fabulous intensity, richness and length all make for a remarkable wine to drink over the next 5-8 years. (The 1998 is still drinking beautifully.) Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

A blend of one-third each Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, year-in and year-out this is among Lirac's top wines, if not the top. In 2003, it's rich, ripe and a touch alcoholic, but still boasts well-defined aromas of plum and spice. In the mouth, it's like liquid chocolate fudge--velvety, yet never ponderous or heavy. Ready to drink now, but should last up to 10 years.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 93