The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin is the best of the village-level wines. It shows tons of Gevrey character in a sweet, perfumed style I find irresistible, with gorgeous length and fine overall balance. The level of quality is admirable, considering there are 200 barrels of this cuvee. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted an impressive range of wines with Jacques Lardiere and his successor Frederic Barnier, who is slated to take over when Lardiere retires at the end of 2012. Jadot makes a mind-bending number of wines, but I limited myself to the best 35 or so examples. In 2009 Jadot began harvesting on September 6. All of the reds were made from 100% destemmed fruit. Maceration times varied from wine to wine, but according to Lardiere all of the wines were made with essentially the same approach. Lardiere is another of the producers who compares 2009 to 1959, and believes the wines will age well because of their density of fruit and minerality. Many of the estate’s own vineyards are farmed biodynamically, but of course Jadot also sources a significant amount of wine from other growers that is not necessarily from biodynamically farmed vineyards.Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin is a gorgeous wine with tons of village character. Sweet, floral notes flesh out in the glass, adding considerable depth to the fruit in this beautifully articulated, striking Gevrey. This is a serious and totally delicious wine that over-delivers at the village level. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756