Fruit-driven and obvious in style, without the minerality and complexity, is the 2005 Condrieu Le Galopine, which is a nice introduction into Condrieu. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Shows delightful peach, anise, starfruit and mineral flavors, with the minerality stretching out the long, pure finish. Not big, but precise and balanced. Drink now through 2008. 1,040 cases made. -JM