The 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni is remarkable. A dark, brooding beauty, this pure Sagrantino flows from the glass with awesome richness. The wine’s fruit is still primary and vibrant, while the textural sensations on the palate are totally seductive. The firm Sagrantino tannins are there, but the wine has so much fruit they are barely perceptible. First made to celebrate the property’s 25th anniversary, the 25 Anni is a selection of the best fruit and sees 24 months in small French oak barrels. It represents the very finest in contemporary winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Marco Caprai has led the way in Montefalco for years, first and foremost through conducting and supporting diligent research on Sagrantino clones, rootstocks, training systems, optimal vine densities and a host of other factors that play an important role in the overall quality of the fruit. Consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli has also made significant contributions in maximizing the potential of these vineyards. The wines are made from low yields and aged in French oak in what is a very personal expression of this appellation. Importer: Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060

Full and fruity, with lots of ripe black fruit aromas and flavors. There's nice density and a firm, balanced structure, with a long finish of fruit and mineral. Firm, with lots of oak, but well-balanced. Needs a bit of time. Best after 2009. 1,200 cases made. -JS