Though the Wine Advocate has been bellowing it for years, it is worth repeating: Columbia Crest is the source of some of the finest values in the world. I am awestruck that winemaker Ray Einberger and his team can produce such quality in industrial-size quantities. Aged for 2 years in new French oak barrels, the 2002 Merlot Reserve (3,000 cases) contains 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Syrah. Its blackberry and dark cherry-laced nose reveals notes of sage and thyme. Medium to full-bodied, it offers a hugely spicy core of black cherries, blackberries, as well as hints of mint whose effects linger in its impressively long and supple finish. It should be enjoyed over the next 6 years. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

A substantial, impressive Merlot, tannic and oaky. The palate impression is thick, smoky and well-endowed with oak. The fruit is dark and meaty, black cherry with hints of herb, chocolate and spice. Big and well-balanced, this may be the best of all the Ste. Michelle group’s 2002 Merlots. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 90