The only real disappointment in the portfolio is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. On the palate it is lean with barely enough fruit to merit a recommendation. It should be drunk over the next few years while it retains its fruit.Cadaretta’s wines are currently made at a custom crush facility from purchased fruit as the winery waits for its recently planted estate vineyards to come on line. There are two white wines among the current releases.Tel. (877) 810-4939; www.cadaretta.com

Dense, complex and distinctive for its earthy, floral, spicy nuances around a rich core of currant and plum fruit, with a supple, deft finish. Drink now through 2015. 960 cases made. -HS

Cadaretta’s largest production red is drinking beautifully in this exceptional vintage. It seems to be moving into midlife softness, with a well-integrated blend of plums, cassis and black cherries, highlighted with clove and coffee. Complex and detailed, its tannins are grainy and dark, adding heft and gravitas to the fruit.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 91