This magnum of the 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is an original release, and it is a little more developed than the "reconditioned" 750-milliliter bottle I reviewed last year. Offering up aromas of mandarin orange, marmalade, honeycomb, fresh pastry, white flowers and vanilla pod, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and penetrating, with lively acids and a long, exotic finish. While this is drinking well, it's a little open-knit for a 12-year-old Chevalier-Montrachet, especially in magnum, and—as with most Leflaive white Burgundies from this era of endemic premature oxidation—I wouldn't bet on it making old bones. In that respect, it was interesting to see what a difference the domaine's reconditioning had made to the last example of this wine that I encountered.