Dense and reserved, Leflaive's 2012 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear, toasted bread, citrus zest, mandarin and crisp peach, framed by a touch of light reduction and new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and powerful, with tangy acids, prodigious concentration and a penetrating, mouthwatering finish. This is a muscular, tight-knit Chevalier that will need time. The product of a humid spring and yields reduced by mildew and hail, by the numbers the 2012 possesses only 13.05% alcohol with a low pH of 3.0.