Richter’s 2006 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Spatlese feinherb weighs in at only 11.5% alcohol – less than the feinherb Kabinetts – not so much on account of higher residual sugar, but rather, as Richter says, “because the must weight was lower here. But the wine showed more elegance and refinement, so I labeled it as ‘Spatlese.’” There were advantages this year both to the Sonnenlay’s elevation and the location in a side valley. This indeed shows refined richness of peach and persimmon, with juicy fresh citrus and saline and stony manifestations of minerality that make for an invigorating and interesting finish. It should prove versatile for 10-12 years. “My minmum must weight was 100,” says Dirk Richter, almost in tones of exasperation, rendering it hard to craft lighter-weight wines, particularly at the restrained levels of residual sugar that usually characterize his estate. Some of Richter’s dry-tasting wines had difficulty coming to terms with their alcohol, and as he was the first to admit, in 2006 this could happen even with “feinherb” wines of more than 15 grams residual sugar. He wasn’t able to get his full picking crew (mostly Poles) in place until October 10, and many of this years wines appeared to struggle with the rougher aspects of botrytis and/or the effects of having tried to remove their taint from the musts. “We ended up just leaving the grapes hanging in some parcels,” says this veteran, “which is something I have never experienced.” (Incidentally, Richter and his importer appear to have collaborated in lowering his prices in the U.S. market for this vintage, despite the weak dollar.)Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800