The 1992 Charmes-Chambertin is a terrific wine from what is generally acknowledged to be a mediocre vintage for red wine. It boasts big, rich, sweet, jammy, black-cherry fruit backed up by hefty notes of smoky, toasty, new oak. Sweet, chewy, and concentrated, with soft tannin and full body, this lush, thick, sumptuous 1992 should be drunk over the next 7-8 years. Laurent, an ex-pastry chef, launched his wine career with the 1989 vintage. I have not tasted any of the earlier vintages, but certainly Laurent, who purchases the wines from growers, ages them in 100% new oak, and bottles them without fining or filtration, has hit the bull's eye with some gorgeous 1992s. They are among the most seductive, sumptuous wines of the vintage. The three grand crus I tasted, obviously expensive, do indeed exhibit far more richness, complexity, and style than most wines from Laurent's peers. These immensely impressive wines merit Burgundy enthusiasts' attention.A Patrick Lescq Selection, importers: Martin Scott Wines Ltd., Little Neck, NY; tel. (718) 279-0808 and the Wine Cask, Santa Barbara, CA; tel. (800) 436-9463.