Laurent's top 1993s are massively concentrated, huge, intense wines that will require 8-10 years of cellaring. The grand crus from Gevrey-Chambertin are some of the finest wines in the Laurent portfolio. The Charmes-Chambertin is a massively-endowed, extremely tannic, full-bodied, black/purple-colored wine with great purity of fruit, ripeness, and staggering concentration and extract. Most Charmes-Chambertins are made in a flattering, up-front style, but this one needs 8-10 years of cellaring; it is a 25-year wine. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers