A similar leitmotif comes through in the 2007 Greco di Tufo, where the traditional mineral notes that are the hallmark of this grape have been covered by a fat, fruit-driven style. This is a well-made wine, but not especially representative of what Greco is all about. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Mastroberardino is one of the historic names in Campania. Today the wines are made under the guidance of consulting oenologist Denis Dubourdieu in a style that aims for more textural richness than these indigenous varieties, particularly the whites, typically yield. Overall quality is average or slightly better, which is commendable considering the large quantities the estate produces. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This neutral and mineral-driven Greco offers tones of white stone and dried flowers. The wine is lean and crisp with a thin but refreshing consistency. It would make an excellent companion to spicy Indian or Thai foods. ——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 87