The 2009 Greco di Tufo?reveals plenty of bright varietal notes but the energy that informs the finest versions seems missing. Hints of citrus, smoke, grapefruit and minerals add complexity on the round finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine. These entry-level selections offer plenty of insight into the unique qualities of Campania’s myriad indigenous red and white grape varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Mastroberardino offers a linear and crisp Greco that unveils a sure mineral vein of chalk and brimstone backed by citrus, pear, apple and fleshy white peach. The mouthfeel is thin and compact, yet the natural freshness leaves a lasting impression.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 88