It is interesting to compare the 1990 Volnay-Caillerets-60 Ouvrees to the regular cuvee of Caillerets. This wine is slightly richer and more aromatic, with an enticing fragrance of apple skins, meaty, earthy, black-cherry-scented fruit, more body, as well as more tannins in the wine's finish. Still young and unevolved, it will benefit from another 3-4 years of cellaring. It should keep for 10-15. Gerard Potel's winemaking touch continues to ensure that Pousse d'Or's wines are among the most elegant and graceful produced in Volnay. In 1990 there is an added aromatic dimension because of the superb ripeness achieved in this vintage. The results are Pousse d'Or's finest wines since 1985 and 1980. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.