The 1990 Tokay-Pinot Gris-Clos St.-Urbain-Rangen is nearly impossible to find in the American marketplace. Apparently New York City's famed restaurant, Lutece, which has a long-standing relationship with the Humbrecht family, is the beneficiary of much of the American allocation. It is a phenomenal Tokay-Pinot Gris with spectacular richness, a heavenly perfume of honeyed nuts, smoke, and buttered corn on the cob. The finish must last for well over a minute. The wine is completely dry, exceptionally concentrated and powerful, yet never heavy because of its crisp acidity.One of the best ways to evaluate a wine enthusiast's collection is to take stock of how much Alsace white wine or Rhone Valley red wine is present. Yet, how many wine enthusiasts realize that Alsace Tokay-Pinot Gris is one of the greatest dry white wines made in the world? Moreover, no one makes better Pinot Gris than Zind-Humbrecht.As I said last year, the range of wines produced by Leonard and Olivier Humbrecht in both 1989 and 1990 is a memorable achievement. The 1989s have largely disappeared from the marketplace except for some of the rare, super-expensive Vendange Tardive offerings, but the dry 1990s have just arrived. Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.