Cogno’s 2004 Barolo (aged in cask) is particularly beautiful in this vintage. Sweet, ripe tannins frame a core of perfumed red cherries, flowers, spices, smoke and earthiness as this soft-textured, feminine Barolo opens up un the glass. The wine offers terrific persistence as well as harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Cogno remains an under-the-radar source for delicious wines. This is an impressive line-up from top to bottom. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Pretty aromas of expensive leather, calfskin and roses follow through to a subtle palate of tar and violets. Cherry and wild berry flavors perfume the medium finish. Tannins are a bit too muscular for the otherwise delicate structure; drink after 2011.——W.E.(2/1/2010)—— 85