Tasted from tank shortly before its anticipated bottling, but not expected to appear in the U.S. market before next year, Brundlmayer's 2010 Riesling Steinmassel Reserve is acquiring its "reserve" designation beginning with this vintage, for reasons analogous to those that led to a Loiser Berg Reserve among the estate's 2010 crop of Gruner Veltliner (and can be found further explained in my tasting note on that wine). The principle of fruit selection was much more stringent than has prevailed heretofore for Steinmassel (that is to say, non-reserve) bottlings. All of the fruit here, incidentally, comes from the family holdings of Brundlmayer's young cellarmaster, Michael Nastl. In addition, Brundlmayer just planted a newly-acquired and ideally-exposed parcel in the Steinmassel, so that even at "reserve" level, he hopes to be able eventually to place more emphasis on, not to mention have more to sell of this "cru." (I am sure it's no coincidence that Fred Loimer now has a piece of Heiligenstein just as his friend Willi Brundlmayer now does of Steinmassel!) Green apple and smoky black tea notes in the nose segue into a bracing yet palpably extract-rich palate that seems suffused with crushed stone. The chew of apple skin and bitterness of apple pip make for a bracing, if faintly abrasive - and certainly admirably persistent - finish. Perhaps by the time this comes on the market here it will be a bit more generous and less obstreperous. But I could in any case see its energy, persistence, and overall concentration making for a wine still fascinating and stimulating half a dozen or more years from now. Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300