The 1990 Crianza (aged for 2 years prior to release) is a terrific bargain. It reveals nicely integrated spicy new oak, an elegant bouquet of tobacco and ripe, curranty and cherry-like fruit, round, spicy, medium-bodied flavors, and a lush, heady finish. Although fully mature, it is capable of lasting for 4-5 years. All of the offerings from Bodegas Sierra Cantabria reviewed in this issue are best buys! For the record, I also tasted two more expensive, older vintages of Sierra Cantabria Riojas. Both the 1985 Reserva Rioja ($17.00) and the 1982 Rioja Gran Reserva ($25.00) exhibited a musty note in the nose. Importer: Jorge Ordonez 39 Constance Road, West Roxbury, MA 02132; telephone (617) 327-1613; telefax (617) 323-0455. I am delighted to note that Jorge Ordonez is one of only a handful of wine importers who exclusively uses reefer (refrigerated) containers for shipment of all his wines.