Potentially the New World's finest Sangiovese producer, Leonetti has fashioned a beautiful 1998 Sangiovese. Its meaty, sweet nose leads to a mouthful of juicy cherries and dark berries. Medium to full-bodied, spicy, and velvety-textured, this is an in-your-face, fruit-dominated, lush Sangiovese. The dense fruit lingers throughout its long, supple finish. Drink it over the next 5 years. Tel. (509) 525-1428.

Gary Figgins works his usual magic and adds layers of rich, buttery, nutty oak to the light, pleasant Sangiovese fruit. The oak doesn't overwhelm, it underscores, and the effect is exciting, sensuous and fat. The wine floats across the palate, with light fruit and buttery oak melding into a sinuous, delicious whole. Beautiful winemaking. ——P.G.(11/15/2000)—— 91