Marjoram and toasted hickory in the nose of the Diel 2010 Pinot Gris have their pungent, piquant counterparts on a palate corpulent but firmed if not outright stiffened by the influence of wood. A strongly but not especially savory or saliva-inducing saltiness vies with smoke and spice, no doubt borne of both grape and toasted oak, in this Pinot’s modest finish. I suspect it will require some care to find interesting applications for this, and I would – albeit merely intuitively – anticipate only modest aging potential. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300