I tasted six dry Tokay-Pinot Gris offerings from Zind-Humbrecht and one Vendange Tardive. As the enthusiastic notes that follow reveal, it is a toss up as to whether Riesling or Pinot Gris was the more successful varietal in 1995. The 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Rotenberg (produced from minuscule yields of 14 hectoliters per hectare - less than 1 ton of fruit per acre), is a backward, dense, potentially compelling example of Pinot Gris; it needs 1-4 years of cellaring. Made from a vineyard planted in pure limestone, the wine is totally dry, with no evidence of botrytis. While it displays massive body, glycerin, and concentration, it is closed and unevolved. This wine has unlimited potential, but patience will be required. Purchasers of the handful of cases that will make it to the United States will need to cellar it for 2-4 years - at the minimum. It should keep and evolve for two decades. The Zind-Humbrecht 1995s possess approximately 10% higher acidity than the crisp, high acid 1994s, largely because September was a very cool month. There was no need to chaptalize any of the ZH wines, and extremely long fermentations resulted in high alcohol.The reviews in this segment are from a memorable tasting held in April, 1997.Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524