The 2004 Shiraz “Filsell” is a single vineyard, old vine cuvee which was barrel-fermented and aged for 18 months in American oak. Purple in color, it exhibits aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, blueberry, and blackberry. It has ample ripe fruit, good depth, and enough structure to evolve for several years. Grant Burge and Burge Family Winemakers have a familial but not philosophical connection. One is big, the other an artisanal, hands-on operation. Not that big is bad as this Grant Burge lineup demonstrated.Importer: Wilson-Daniels, Helena, CA; www.grantburgewines.com.au

Dark, syrupy, minty, blackcurrant smell. Rich, raw black-currant taste. Sweet fruit. Typical of its type.

From a vineyard planted in 1927, this is aged in a blend of French and American oak. Subtle dill notes mark the nose, but there’s more vanilla and even more blackberry and blueberry fruit. It’s not as soft or lush as some Barossa Shirazes, finishing with a dusty, satiny texture. Drink now–2014.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 89