Bonneau de Martray whites from the 1980s generally remain very youthful today, and the 1985 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is if anything still somewhat on the young side for primetime drinking. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, drawn butter, cornmeal, white flowers and iodine, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and layered, with a satiny attack, terrific depth at the core and a long, penetrating, chalky finish.