De la Moriniere is always at pains to caution that his white “shuts down” for several years soon after bottling, but in that case I must have tasted his 2007 Corton-Charlemagne before that happened. Cooling herbal, restrained floral and bitter-sweet hints of black currant and citrus rind on the nose lead to a luscious tide of ripe yellow plum, white peach, lime, and grapefruit tinged with chalk, salt, and iodine. A silken texture in no way diminishes the impression of clarity and refreshment. Faintly honeyed and nut oil notes add a sense of richness and depth in a finish of utmost purity of refreshing fruit; clarity to mineral nuances; and vibratory energy. When one compares the 2006 side-by-side today, the latter does indeed show a more overt stoniness and – for all of its textural richness and additional amplitude – suffers slightly in comparison with such fresh fruit vivacity as accrues to the 2007. But either of these contrasting reflections of a great site should be well worth following for more than a decade. As usual, Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Moriniere gave his Chardonnay from the heart of En Charlemagne a year in cask followed by six months on the fine lees in tank. He picked his one Pinot block early in September, then paid his crew for eight or nine days while the rest of his parcels ripened completely. "I would never have expected such quality given the weather conditions," says de la Moriniere, but then he reflected on the frequent divergence between human psychological perception of "good weather" and what really matters, namely the needs of the vine. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (646) 223 2200