Don’t look for the full body one expects of Russian River, but rather a lighter color and body in this first bottling of Lee from Saintsbury. There’s an earthy herbalness to the complex rosehip tea, cola and cherry flavors, yet the wine is silky and elegant, with a lilting quality. Drink now through 2010, before it loses fruit. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 90