The 2008 Barbaresco Mondino is a touch brighter and firmer than the Borgese. Freshly cut flowers, dark red fruit and licorice are some of the notes that flow from the glass. The Mondino impresses for its length and vibrant, high-toned finish. This is another beautifully balanced wine from Piero Busso. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This is one of the most impressive lineups I have ever tasted from Piero Busso. It’s great to see this small, artisanal grower doing so well. Hopefully this is a sign of even greater things to come. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243, Grape Vine of North Carolina, Concord, NC; tel. (704) 786-6406, Bond Street?Imports, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 521-1353

This sweetly perfumed expression of Nebbiolo offers pretty aromas of fragrant blue flower and scented candle. The wine opens with a bright garnet color and drying tannins that would match delicate pasta with game meat sauce.——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 90