Moving on to the trio of Claude Dugat’s Grand Crus, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a quintessential “Charmes” bouquet with vivacious scents of dark cherry, blueberry and quince, suffused with an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sinewy entry. It coalesces in the second half and displays very fine, supple tannins with plenty of juicy Pinot fruit just cloaked under the 100% new oak at the moment, although everything is balanced and in sync. I would afford this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. Drink 2016-2025. Claude Dugat guided me through his 2011s on a blissful July morning, the flowers in such bloom that at one point he questioned whether I was wearing any scent. For the record, I have never worn aftershave in my life. Claude’s wines are deftly made, occasionally lifted by the new oak to the extent where I feel less would be more, but still highly enjoyable. Importer: Robert Kracher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275