The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out brilliantly, soaring from the glass with scents of cherries and sweet berries mingled with warm spices, licorice, rose petals and peonies. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, it's sensual and enveloping, with a succulent core of fruit, terrific concentration and a long, perfumed finish. Elegant and complete, this is as fine a Charmes-Chambertin as I can remember tasting chez Dugat, and while it's almost disconcertingly approachable young, it should enjoy a long life.