The blockbuster 2004 Petite Sirah Pickett Road boasts a blue/black color as well as a beautiful bouquet of graphite, white flowers, blackberries, and blue fruits. Intense, full-bodied, powerful, pure, and long, it can be approached now, but California Petite Sirah can be incredibly long-lived, and it should last for two decades or more. Tel. (510) 865-7007

Here’s an industrial strength Petite Sirah, from vineyards in the hotter, northern part of the valley. It’s a bold, powerful wine that slams the palate with blackberry marmalade and chocolate flavors that coat the mouth and last for a long time. For all that, this only-in-California wine is fully dry. Be warned, the alcohol is 16%.——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 90