The 1991 Rosso di Montefalco is an exotic, late harvest, ripe, chewy, alcoholic wine with considerable thickness and texture. Its aromas and flavors range from herbs and melted road tar, to overripe jammy black-cherry fruit. It is a wine to drink with cheese at the end of a meal. I have had Paolo Bea's wines in the past and they are both controversial and incredibly variable in quality and character. These wines elicit a similar reaction as those of the Coturri brothers in Sonoma. Readers will be divided between bestowing them with extraordinary admiration or outright condemnation. Their exaggerated, distinctive and funky styles guarantee plenty of controversy. Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.