Domaine Leroy's 2005 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées is a brillant young wine, though it's still the better part of a decade away from even early maturity. Unfurling in the glass with a deep bouquet of black cherries, wild berries, smoked meats, espresso roast, blood orange and exotic spices, framed by a deft touch of new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with an immensely concentrated core of fruit, elegantly muscular structuring tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, carnal finish.