Mingling deep fruit tones of raspberries and wild berries with exotic suggestions of Asian spices, rose hips and tea-smoked duck, Leroy's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées is medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with powdery tannins, succulent acids and a deep, layered mid-palate. This, too, has turned out very well, though this year I'm inclined to prefer the Beaux Monts.