Appealing for its caressing fruit and supple tannins. Lets the currant- and anise-laced flavors glide across the palate, offering good depth and ending with a complex, persistent finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2013. 8,000 cases made. -JL

Quintessa’s been on a roll the last several vintages, with the 2004 knocking it out of the park, but the ’05 isn’t quite in the same league. Hard to say why, except that production was higher than ever. The tannins leap out first, big and hard in the way of a young Cabernet, and immediate gratification is not what this wine is about. But it has impressive black currant flavors and needs time. Should be best after 2010. Tasted twice.——S.H.(12/15/2008)—— 88